Official Luthiers Forum!

Since this topic comes up every so often I thought I would document the method I use. Lay down three, 2" wide, strips of masking tape and locate bridge location. I commonly use 25.4" scale length (+ .1" compensation) and this is measured from the nut to the center of the saddle on the 1st string (little E). I then subtract 1/4" as this is the length from the front edge of my bridge to the saddle centerline on the little E. I then use this mark to locate the front edge of the bridge.


Next I put a mark on each end of the fingerboard in the exact center and then draw a line from these two fingerboard marks onto the masking tape. This will now be the centerline of the bridge location. Next measure the bridge (between the outer E sting holes and draw a centerline mark on the front edge of the bridge. This mark will then line up with the centerline of the fingerboard. Next I take two drafting squares and draw a perpendicular line from the centerline to the leading edge of the bridge. This assures that the bridge is now perfectly square to the centerline.



Now place the bridge on the line / leading edge line and hold it down firmly or clamp it in postion. Drill holes through the outer E strnig holes. Clip off the heads of a couple of plastic bridge pins and insert the pins into the outer E string holes and this will now hold the bridge in position. Draw around the perimeter of the bridge and remove the bridge.


Now draw a line 1/32" inside of the traced outline of the bridge. Take a razor and cut the tape on the inside line and remove the tape. This is the area that I will remove the finish.


I use a Dremel, router base and 1/8" carbide down-cut bit and make a test cut begining at one of the holes. After the correct depth is set (just to remove the finish and no wood) rout off the finish up to the masking tape.


Once the finish is removed use 180 grit sandpaper and clean up any fuxx left in the gluing area.


Remove the masking tape.


Test fit the bridge before gluing.


Apply glue (I use LMI or hide) to the bottom of the bridge and to the top and let it tack up for a minute or so if using white LMI or slap it down quick if using hide glue.


Clamp brige in place and clean out all glue squeeze out. I use a UHMM plastic caul inside to back up the clamp on the bridge plate.


After the glue is thoroughly dry (24 hours) remove the clamp and tap the bridge pins out (from the inside out).

Although my bridge does rest on a 1/32" perimeter of finish I have not noticed any negative tonal (gasket) effects in the energy transmission. I have removed bridges and the finish (.003" - .005" mils thick) actually compresses and the there is wood to wood contact in the periphericy of the joint with no visible glue build up. I have remove the finish [in the past] to the exact outline of the bridge but it is a lot more difficult to get a clean looking fit and now prefer this method.

Hope this helps and answers some questions that you may have. There are many other ways of doing this step but this is the method that I have settled on, for now...

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Thanks Tim,

Another piece of your fine work for my binder!!

Shane

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Canada

Thanks Tim. I like the large masking area than remove only a small amount of the tape. It makes those possible mistakes a little less probably I would guess.

Oh and very nice looking guitar, nice burst too.Rod True38621.93125

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

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Thanks, Tim
Good info and very nice guitar.

Ron

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

   Bravo! Exactly what I needed to see.

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Give me 50 cents worth of regular.
Check my oil too, if you don`t mind,,,

Excellent presentation Tim...Thank you!!

Walter

Very nice. This one will go into my woodworking library. Stunning guitar, by the way.

Thanks for the kind words fellas. I now wish I would have talken pics of a plain top as my feeble attempt at a burst pales in comparison to some of the other fine examples of talented folks here but hey ya gotta start somewhere, right?

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Hey Tim! Were you spying on me? That's exactly how I do my bridges! Only my finish is mostly Shellac ( I do all mine F.P) so I scrape with a razor then finish with the sand paper.

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

Thanks Tim,
that's exactly how I'm going to do it on the one I'm finishing now. It's
clean and neat.

I have a question. You said you compensate by +.1 to the saddle center
line on the treble E. Does that mean that you have compensated by
almost 1/4" on the low E, since the saddle slot is slanted? Everyone keeps
saying to measure the compensation at the bridge center, and that
usually implies there is very little, if any compensation at the high E. I
know this compensation thread keeps rearing up, but there seems to be a
lot of differing thoughts here. There isn't a lot of wiggle room for final
intonation, so the closer the compensation brings you to final pitch, the
better, in my mind. Your thoughts and anyone else's would be greatly
appreciated.
Craig

Tim great post and really nice guitar. Maybe Lance can someway put this in the jig/tech or someother part of site so can refer to it later

Did you ever think of making some guitar building videos Tim? It looks like you would be good at it! Thanks

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Anderson Guitars
Clearwater,Fl. 33755

[QUOTE=ToddStock] I'm waiting for some of you guys to start working on a book...[/QUOTE]

Hmmm...or how about a regular OLF "Jigs, Tips and Techniques" page (or two) in each issue of ASIA's "Guitarmaker"?

BTW, Tim...very nicely presented. And I, for one, really like that 'burst!CarltonM38622.5035300926

[QUOTE=csullivan] Thanks Tim,
that's exactly how I'm going to do it on the one I'm finishing now. It's
clean and neat.

I have a question. You said you compensate by +.1 to the saddle center
line on the treble E. Does that mean that you have compensated by
almost 1/4" on the low E, since the saddle slot is slanted? Everyone keeps
saying to measure the compensation at the bridge center, and that
usually implies there is very little, if any compensation at the high E. I
know this compensation thread keeps rearing up, but there seems to be a
lot of differing thoughts here. There isn't a lot of wiggle room for final
intonation, so the closer the compensation brings you to final pitch, the
better, in my mind. Your thoughts and anyone else's would be greatly
appreciated.
Craig[/QUOTE]

Craig:
I have always measured to the little E as this is how I learned from Dick Boak's book wayyyyy back when? My intonation is "usually" spot on and rarely do I have to compensate the saddle.

_________________
tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Great job, Tim. Really clears up the process. I was wondering how you guys routed off the finish.

One question: How do you clean up the squeeze-out without damaging the fragile finish? I messed up my first and had to pull the bridge and refinish the top.

Thanks.

I have a pan of HOT water handy and use a cotton cloth rag. I also use a 6" scale [inside of the rag] to force the rag into tight corners. The scale has been sanded so there are NO sharp corners or edges to scratch the finish if it would protrude through the rag (lesson learned the hard way).

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Thanks for taking the time to document this for us Tim. It definitely needs to be added to the jigs and methods area. I'll definitely give this method a try.

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

Thanks Tim for clarifying my compensation question. I'm definitely
adding all this to my own bag of tricks. Actually it's everybody else's bag
of tricks. I'm just borrowing them because of the generosity of all of you.
Craig

Thanks, Tim. This, along with your recent buffing tutorial are keepers. Your instructions, jig descriptions and methods have always been some of my favorites. Most importantly, you've confirmed to me the need for consistency and attention to detail. Thanks for taking the time to share.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com